Saturday, February 09, 2008

Turkey roulade with soba and baby shiitakes


We got Rock Band today! Scott and I are in a fake Playstation 3 heavy metal band that we named MÖrning Wüd (okay, it was my witty idea to fuck it up with umlauts). We so totally melt faces that I barely mustered enough ambition to cook dinner. Seriously, I am cracking out so hard on pretending that I'm just a singer in a rock and roll band (gagh, terrible Moody Blues pun) that I could've just eaten top ramen for dinner. However! I did make food, and it was even premeditated and delicious.

First, though, I should mention that I picked up some lights from Ikea (those $5 rectangular, glass tabletop numbers) and built a ghetto-ass light box for photographing my food. I dunno, it seems like a good thing to be able to shoot meals besides breakfast without having orange-puke tones on everything.

Ooh, but even before that, I should brag about the lovely morning I had today. It was fucking redonkulous out today, like maybe 60 degrees, and sunny, so Scott and I took a nice stroll to Broder for some Swedish brekkie. I had the baked eggs "Jordbruken" (w/caramelized onions and bacon) and Scott had the pancakes with lingonberries and lemon curd. Yummeh. Good brekkie got me all revved-up to walk some more down to the fancy-pants grocery store. I picked up some incredible produce such as baby purple kohlrabi, purple cauliflower, golden beets, multi-colored radishes, some nice arugula, some red kale and a Buddha's hand citrus.

Ain't it pretty? I entered this into the Eat Fresh - Wonderful Winter blog event over at Meeta's joint.

And hey guess what, did you know that kohlrabi greens are edible, tasty even? I suspected as much, and it was confirmed with a quick Googling. Just perfect for the roulade I had been planning.

Alright alright, the recipe already.

Turkey Roulade with Soba and Baby Shiitakes
I made duxelles of baby shiitakes and minced kohlrabi greens, and it guess what? It works! The lemon zest makes the soba taste like it has been spiked with Ponzi sauce. Serves 2.

1 c kohlrabi greens, minced finely*
1 c shiitake mushrooms, minced finely*
1 tbsp minced shallot
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp sake
1 tbsp grated ginger
1 turkey "breast tender"
1 tbsp shiro miso
1 tsp sesame seeds
2 or 3 tbsp gari (pickled ginger like they give you for sushi)

*I used the food processor to get this done in 10 pulses.

4 oz. Soba
a bit of cooking oil
small handful shiitake, sliced - ends up being like 1 cup before cooking
1/3 c minced red onion
2 tbsp minced lemon zest (I used a "finger" from a Buddha's hand)
2 tbsp soy sauce
1/2 c sake
2 tbsp mirin
1 tsp wasabi powder
1 tsp black sesame seeds
1/2 sheet of nori, sliced into slivers (I used scissors)

Heat oven to 375oF. In a medium saucepan, heat up the sesame oil over medium heat. Saute the minced shiitake, kohlrabi greens, shallot and ginger, stirring occasionally until slightly softened. Add the soy sauce, sake and mirin and cook for 5 minutes until the alcohol cooks out of the sake and the liquids reduce by about 50%. This is your duxelles.

Meanwhile, cut that nasty tendon out of the turkey and butterfly it to produce one fillet ~1/4" thick. Smear the fillet with miso, then sprinkle on the sesame seeds and top with sliced gari in a single layer as shown below.

When duxelles is ready, spread a 1/2"-thick layer on top of the gari, then roll up the whole thing into a ...uh...roll.
Now tie that shit up tight. Since I'm terrible at this step, I won't bore you with details, but look at the photo and pretend I'm skillfully tying this up using only one piece of string instead of five or six.

Brown this in a pan (you could use the duxelle pan) over medium-high heat until you get some Maillard on all sides, then pop it in the oven until a thermomter insterted into the middle (at an angle) reads ~150. This'll take about 15 minutes, give or take. When it's done, pull it out and let it rest for 5 minutes.

Whilst the roulade is roasting/resting, get some water boiling for the soba (I take it you know how to boil some noodles). Heat up a different medium-sized saute pan over medium heat. Get some more oil heated up and saute the onion, shiitakes and lemon zest until tender. Add the liquids and saute until reduced (like for the duxelles). Add the wasabi, stirring until dissolved.

Oh god I hope you were keeping tabs on the soba. Nothing worse than overcooked soba. When it's al dente, strain and rinse in cold water. Then stir-fry it for just a few seconds in the mushroom pan. Stir in the sesame seed. If I had some green onion, I'da totally sliced it razor-thin and stirred it in the pan with the soba.

Slice roulade into inch-thick medallions. Plate by nesting a nice wad of soba/mushroom, top with medallions and then sprinkle the sliced nori on the whole thing. We enjoyed this with some hard rocking, but a premium cold sake would be fine, too.


15 comments:

Emiline said...

I've heard a lot about rock band, from some friends at work. Sounds like fun. Maybe someday I will get it.

I'm jealous of your grocery store. We don't have any of those things. Do you like the Buddha's hand?

I read about making a box for photography on Jenn's forum, but I couldn't really figure it out. It would be nice to take pictures of something at night.

The dish looks amazing. So different. And fancy.... duxelles.

Peter G said...

How good is it to be able to leave comments? Especially about your ingenious recipe with all that lovely produce. I'm glad the light box is working for ya! Great pics Heather. You're one "twisted sister"...(no heavy metal band pun intended ;0)

Nilmandra said...

That soba looks really lovely and delicious! Shitake is love...

Judy @ No Fear Entertaining said...

Yummm. I can't believe turkey can look that good!!! You lost me though at the gabi - the kids would not eat this! Maybe I can send them away...

Judy @ No Fear Entertaining said...

Ooops. Damn typo I meant gari!!!

Ben said...

I am not too crazy about Japanese food, but you make it look so delicious that I want to try it, again.

I've always said that food bloggers are the best because we are cooks, writers and photographers, don't you agree? A little tip about lighting for your photographs. If your camera supports a slave/dedicated/wireless flash it is worth getting one. The results with off-center and bouncing light can be pretty amazing. Using natural light is other great alternative. We learn so much in this blogging business that soon we become experts.

Great music, again :D

Peter M said...

Something tells me you also have a stripper's pole in that kitchen to go along with the hunky tunes on your blog.

The roullade looks looks well done, nice ingredients but you may keep the Soba noodles.

Núria said...

It looks fantastic, Heather!!! You are good at Japanesse food too! I love the picture with your multicolored bunch of veggies, they look so beautiful :D
Meeta at What's for lunch honey? is asking for some season veggies pictures, maybe you are interested in sending this over to her?

http://whatsforlunchhoney.blogspot.com/2008/01/eat-fresh-wonderful-winter.html
Salud!

Heather said...

Emiline - the Buddha's hand is good - it's like all skin and zest, no flesh, but the pith isn't really bitter. I might candy the rest of it.

Petah Down Undah - Yes, it is nice to both give and receive of the comments. And eyeroll at the pun. :P

Nilmandra - these baby shiitakes are the most tender little nuggets of perfection I have ever tasted. :)

Judy - you could probably leave the gari out, I just love the sweet/spicy/salty combo of it.

Ben - I don't know if my camera can take that type of flash, but I am certainly interested in finding that out. Thanks for the tip! And yes, food bloggers pretty much are a bunch of geniuses.

Mr. The Greek - I got a twenty that says the hubz wishes I had stripper pole in the kitchen! WHat can I say - I needed to put some moog on there.

Nuria - Thanks for the suggestion! I will send Meeta a pic of my groceries. :)

Peter M said...

You (Heather) are a bonafide SPAZ! lol

glamah16 said...

This looks really good! I like your idea for making a light box and getting lights from Ikea. I dont want to spend $100 for a kit I saw with lights at a photo store.
In answer to your question you left on my blog, I would be so honored!My email is courtneynzeribeATsbcglobalDOTnet.
Great Idea!

JennDZ - The Leftover Queen said...

Wow, Heather! That looks really good. I think you had a really great weekend. That breakfast sounds SO AWESOME! YUM. I like the process pictures you took this time.

Heather said...

Peter - I know you are but what am I. :D

Courtney - I heard the light boxes aren't that great anyway, so you may as well save your cash. I'll shoot you an email later today - I'm so glad you're interested! :)

Jenn - I DID have a great weekend! And it's a good thing I took advantage of Saturday cuz Sunday was icky out again. Sunny weather turns me into Super Productive Fun Lady.

Pixie said...

Heather this dish looks amazing! and wow, at your veg box! Great thinking with the lights for your photography.

Ben said...

What kind of camera do you have? I just bought a new Canon a540 but before buying it I made a very exhaustive research and I might know if your camera support dedicated flashes.